Berghoff - Chicago, IL: The Berghoff, which opened in 1898, closed in 2006– a sad moment in Chicago culinary history. But it reopened with a vintage German-American menu supplemented by 21st century fare and ambience that remains solidly 19th century. To dine at the bare wood tables in this dark-oak place is to recall a style of bountiful urban gastronomy that pre-dates Prohibition. Vintage murals on the walls show images of old Chicago and the Columbian Exposition of 1893 and portraits of stern Berghoff ancestors. Long-time customers start their meal with a shot or two of The Berghoff’s private stock bourbon and/or draughts of brewed-here ale or lager.
Appetizers include the likes of Alsatian onion and apple soup, potato pierogies, and mini bratwursts; and while The Berghoff is best known for such Eastern European classics as sauerbraten with sweet and sour gravy, rahm schnitzel, and veal bratwurst, it also happens to be a fine place to enjoy such all-American meals as Lake Superior whitefish and a lovely 10-ounch hamburger at lunch.
I am especially fond of the sandwich menu, which includes a beautiful Reuben or hot corned beef on house-baked rye, grilled brat on a pretzel roll, and a turkey BLT made with jalapeno bacon and zesty chutney. Noteworthy side dishes include some of the tastiest creamed spinach anywhere, German potato salad, spaetzle, potato pancakes, and red cabbage. Sauerkraut – fresh and pickly and radiant with spice – is memorable alongside just about any meal. For dessert: Michigan blueberry crème brulee, a root beer float using Berghoff-brewed root beer, or kirsch-flavored Black Forest cake.
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